Secret Agent Trench Coat

For quite some time I had been waiting for a trench coat pattern from Oliver + S. When it came out a year or so ago, I snapped up the pattern quickly and then promptly sat on it all this time.
Yesterday I  had some sewing time and at long last I made the trench coat!

The fabric used is called Commander.  It's 75% cotton/25%polyester and has a coating to make it water resistant which presents a problem when ironing, stitching and pinning.

The good news is Commander doesn't need to be interfaced. It's stiff enough on it's own.

In terms of ironing, it doesn't hold a crease well even though the iron is set to cotton.  Any hotter and it might scorch. Well, maybe not but I wasn't about to try it.

In terms of stitching, I used a very sharp needle in the machine; a Microtex #12 that I promptly broke due to carelessness and it being my last one, resorted to a Universal #12.

The request was for hot pink buttons as well as hot pink topstitching which worked out just fine when it came to topstitching using the Universal needle.

I didn't select the hand quilt stitch because it would have been too difficult on the Commander fabric.

In terms of pinning, it is near impossible to stick a pin through the fabric.  Cindy suggested using these nifty little clips that indeed were nifty and held the pieces together while I sewed.

Wonder Clips. $20 for pkg of 10

The pattern, like all Oliver + S patterns, was easy. There were many pieces yet the instructions were crystal clear.  Unlike today which is foggy.

It was -20 (-4 oF) at the beginning of the week and now just six days later it's +11 (52 oF) and that is very strange for January.
Plus that, it's raining.
Raining on me, raining on my new trench coat and raining on the wildlife. Therefore, they must be......

.......  here comes the bad pun ........ Rain Deer!

Coat size 4.

I agonized whether button holes should be in pink thread or green, glad I went with green. However they should have been corded buttonholes because these ones frayed.
Next time I make this coat I will set up the back-up sewing machine with topstitching thread to save time changing thread colours.

Schadenfreude

The other day I received an e-mail from the notorious sewing sisters Ashley and Emily who go by the handle: FrancesSuzanne.
Frances was their mother's middle name but I don't know where the Suzanne came from. And quite ironically, I have a dear family friend who's name is Suzanne Frances.
At any rate, they passed on to me a sort of chain-letter type of link called a Liebster Award.

"The Liebster Blog Award is an award given by bloggers to up and coming bloggers, most of whom have less than 200 followers (or have been blogging for less than 6 months). It is to show newer bloggers that they are appreciated, and to help spread the word about new blogs. It was created to promote appreciation and recognition among the blog world. Liebster translates to “dearest” (or favorite/best) in German. It is also known as the Love Blog Award."

Whenever I see a German word like that, I think of "schadenfreude" which means getting enjoyment from someone else's misfortune.  It's a cool word and there isn't an equivalent in the English language. It's difficult to pronounce too so it's amusing to listen to folks (including me) attempt to use the word. Double-barrel-fun-word, I'd say.

I would also like to point out that I don't take too much in life seriously however I will do my best to join in on the Liebster Award.

Here are the questions that have been asked by Ashley and Emily

11 questions for fellow Leibster award recipients:
1. What are your top five ‘must-read’ blogs?

http://francessuzanne.blogspot.com ...... because of the creativity
http://oliverands.com/blog ...... because it's the source
http://www.smudgetikka.com ....it shows trends
http://dishfunctionaldesigns.blogspot.com ..... it's inspirational
http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com ....he is hilarious

2. Do you have a phobia? And if so – what is it?

Being old and stuck in a Nursing Home with no other music on my iPod other than Kenny G that someone uploaded thinking I would like it.

3. What is your favorite fabric? This might be a certain designer’s look, or a particular style / texture you are drawn to....

Bombazine .... because it has a funny name.


4. What is your most tried and true pattern in your stash?

Puppet Show shorts and Bubble Dress both Oliver + S patterns.


5. What is your dream job?

I'd like to be Rock Star so I could prance around a stage like Mick Jagger and belt out tunes like Lady Marmalade or Ramble On.

6. Share a tradition that you and your family enjoy

When our children were young, every year it was a tradition to take them on a vacation to a far away land.

Becky with saucer sliding down Mt. Everest

Graham grinning from the summit.

Sarah lookin' cool on an Alpine climb

Becky pointing the way along the Great Wall of China.

What were the odds of finding candy floss on Easter Island?

Now that our children are grown and have left the nest, we've kept up the tradition and we take our labrador Lucy on exotic vacations.

Lucy finding the Northwest Passage.

7. Name one thing sewing-related that you haven’t tried…but want to learn how to do.


Make a bathing suit.

8. What is your favorite month of the year and why?


January, because the cold freezes the sap causing the trees in the forest to make a popping sound, the water under the frozen lake groans and the snow squeaks with every step. It sounds like an orchestra outside.
But next month, ask me again and I'll tell you February is my favourite. Then ask me again in March.......

9. If you had the opportunity to do a guest post, what series would you want to participate in….or, on which site would you like to guest post?


I wouldn't want to do that. 

10. Where do you get your sewing inspiration (be specific – for example: a particular pinterest board, blog, children’s retail, etc.)? 


From all the blogs I follow.  
In my profile is the reading list. 

11. What has been your greatest “sewing find” to date?

Most definitely Oliver + S patterns .....   hands down!

Thank you Emily & Ashley for thinking of me and my little on-line journal. I hope I haven't disappointed you.

School Days Jacket

This is a test run for this O+S pattern. Waiting in the wings is some lovely pale pink melton with cozy white kasha lining.  In the meantime this remnant fabric of mixed fibers has worked out well for a practice piece.

Bought some cheap stuff at Fabricland agin, huh?

While this pattern is labelled as a '3 scissor' in terms of difficulty with 4 being the most difficult although there is no O+S pattern in that category ... yet ... overall it wasn't difficult at all. Just many steps which isn't surprising for a lined coat with a hood and pockets.

Perhaps the most difficult of all was lining up the plaid while cutting out the pattern pieces to make sure everything aligned.

Because the fabric wasn't very stiff I used some stabilizer in the front placket (wearers left side). In hindsight, I should have used 2 pieces of medium weight stabilizer fused together which would have helped the placket from curling.

I found that the length of cord without the button (wearer right side) needed to be cut 6" long and not 4 3/4" as per instructions. So the next time I make this jacket at Step 5 (Assemble the Front Jacket Panels) stop and make the other side so the toggle cord length can be adjusted before topstitching.

Get on with the diatribe lady. We're after your bird feeder.

For a test run jacket, I think it will look good paired with black wide-wale corduroy pants maybe Sandbox Pants and a white brushed cotton Sketchbook shirt.

Looks more like something Herb Tarlek would wear.

Size 3.

Notes to self:
select heavy fabric setting
change needle to 14
medium weight interfacing
try less stiff cord
piping around hood (fur?)
stop at step 5 and do other side

Bedtime Story

I am slowly trying out all the Oliver + S patterns. I have them all, plus in all sizes with the exception of one or two but I haven't made every single one just yet.

This one is Bedtime Story p.j.'s.  I lengthened the top to make it into a housecoat.

This nubbly fabric is a pretty yellow cotton that's been in my stash for at least five years and it's perfect for a little housecoat.

I had intended to make some blue jammies to match the tie but I've run out of time and my sewing room has to to switched back to a bedroom for the holidays.

This is size 3.  It took all of 1/2 hour to put it together after it was cut out.  Talk about easy and quick which begs the question ... why I didn't make it sooner.

Adelaide

I really like the Children's Corner pattern Adelaide.  I've made it several times before with good results.
However my model would only pose if she could make silly faces.

The collar and cuff is black velvet and trimmed with black lace.  It looks a little Goth to me paired with the dark purple and black check in the fabric.

The fabric is a poly blend so it doesn't hold the knife pleats all that well. It's also got a bad case of static cling as can be seen at the armscye.

I found these interesting buttons in my stash.

This is size 4.

Notes to self:

1. for front pleats don't bother basting, just stitch 2.0
2. slip a little stabilizer in the buttonhole section of the placket.
3. make a hem facing
4. if using larger buttons than 12mm, make an extension on the button section reinforcing with stabilizer
5. refer to this video for the back inverted placket from Children's Corner.
6. only use fabric that will hold knife pleats sharply

Hopscotch Dress

When Bessie Mary closed down, I bought some Oliver + S City Weekend knit fabric from Jan, the owner.
And with that fabric I made Oliver + S pattern, Hopscotch dress.

While I was trying to get a photo of the dress, someone came to check out my sewing.

"The knit fabric is lovely to work with," I explained to my admirer.  "And the pattern was so easy and quick to make" I continued.

"It's size 3.  What do think of it?" I asked Miss Doe.

She gave it a '2 hoofs' up.

Birthday Party dress

Another outfit from the hamper of 'cut-and-ready-to-sew-outfits' is finished.

This one is Oliver + S Birthday Party dress.  The fabric is black stretchy denim.  The bow is light blue grosgrain but once again, my camera just can't capture the range between black and light blue.

The facings are light blue cotton matching the bow.

Because the main fashion fabric is rather thick, I didn't include and fold the front facing into the pleats as per the instructions. Instead, I completely assembled the front pleated panel (page 3 col. 3) and then cut out about 5"(12cm) from the front facing piece (page 2 col.3) so it is on the outside of the pleated piece on the inside.

The hem facing is also blue and it follows the folds of the pleats as per the instructions.

No matter how much I ironed the pleated section, the fabric just doesn't want to hold pressed folds or pleats.

I was losing light, so I couldn't get a photo of the back buttons which are also blue.

I bought Caitlin some sparkly black ballet style shoes to wear with this dress.

Dress is size 3.

I love this pattern.  For fall and winter all this needs is a long sleeved T-shirt or blouse underneath.  In the summer, it makes for a perfect sundress.

Puppet Show dress

I'm slowly making headway sewing the fall outfits I cut out way back in late August.

The latest one finished is Oliver + S Puppet Show dress.

I really like this dress but my daughter isn't too keen on it.  However she did ask for long sleeve dresses for fall and winter so hopefully, she'll like this dress because of the sleeves.

The fabric is 100% unknown fibers and it washed really well too.  The collar, cuff and piping is black velvet.

I added length to the sleeves pattern piece to get a full length long sleeve.

For the cuff, I made the band long so it overlapped instead of a gap as per the pattern.

There are lots of buttons for the back and thankfully, I have a load of black buttons in my stash. Unfortunately, the dress is sticking to the mannequin so the back looks puckered and the collar tugged out of shape. 

The dress is size 3. Fingers crossed my daughter likes it.  Lucy does!

Two more patterns

There are a lot of Oliver + S patterns in my stash that I haven't used yet.  Here are two.

First up is Sandbox Pants.
These are just a test run to check for size. 12-18mos. The fabric might be a little itchy but it doesn't matter because they are just a test run.
I really like the pockets both front and back on this pattern.  And like all O+S patterns the instructions were easy to follow with perfect results.

Second is the skirt from the 2+2 pattern.  I've made the top but not the skirt.
This size 3. The fabric is stretchy and was a 100% unknown fibers remnant.  It too is a test run.
I love how this skirt falls from the waist and I know it will meet the twirl-ability factor.

I have a hamper full of traced, cut and ready to assemble patterns.  So I'm taking advantage of the nasty weather outside and will stay inside to sew.
Maybe the leaves that need clearing will blow away on their own thanks to the weather system that is over top of us feeding the hurricane that's heading this way.

The hydro will most likely go out soon .... back to the machine while it still has electricity!

Nature Walk

I've had this pattern for at least 2 years. I have no idea why it's taken me so long to make it because, as it turns out,  it is sooooo simple and quick!  
Gee, I could have churned out a whole bunch by now had I got my act together sooner.

So here's a test run. Size 18-24mos, using some leftover lime green polar fleece and brown knit.

It's not very sunny out thanks to the 'Frankenstorm' that's on it's way. The fleece is much brighter and greener than in this photo.
Not a good shot of the pants either.  Oh well.

Oliver + S Nature Walk. If it fits Adam, I've got some more fun knits to make this top waiting patiently in my stash.

Jump Rope Dress

Last night I made the Oliver + S Jump Rope dress using brown tweed (100% unknown mixed fibers) and a fat quarter of a William Morris print.  The tweed washed and dried nicely so whatever the fabric is made of, it'll work for children's wear.

The object was to make the placket opening bigger because for the past Jump Rope dresses I've made, it was difficult to get Caitlin in the dress. Therefore, I increased the depth of placket pattern pieces by 2 inches. (5cm)

I used the FQ fabric on the pockets ............

and on the cuffs, which isn't in the pattern ..........

on the hem facing, also not in the pattern .....

and on the collar and plackets.

It's size 3, View B.  Drop dead easy to make as every Oliver + S pattern is.

When I use an O+S pattern I am struck by how ingenious Liesl (the designer) is and that her mum must be so proud of her. Liesl has pretty much revolutionized children's sewing patterns in my opinion.

Note to self: be extra accurate with cutting the neck section of the placket. 

Playdate, again

Here is the Playdate dress again.  It's such a sweet little dress and so easy to whip up.
Taking a photo of it is another matter though.  The dress is navy stretch denim and the bib is white cotton. My camera can't capture the range between dark and light and consequently getting a decent photo is not going to happen. At least by me.

Here's a closer detail of the bib section.  I used a pleater board to get the pleats equal. Having all those pleats made the bib rather thick, so I hand basted the piping to the back of the bib and then stitched in place.

Previously for the inside yoke sections of this dress I've tried  1) serging 2)using bias tape,  and this time around made a little facing to finish off that edge neatly.

 

I used the same fabric for the pockets

and for the hem (notice how the colour changed - the navy fabric isn't this light.)

and made two self covered buttons.

On the sleeves I used some of the bias cut fabric used for the piping around the bib section. However the green looks grey next to the granite background.  Oh well. A photographer I'm not.

If it fits, I'll make a bunch more of these dresses.

Size 3T.  (And in this photo, the colour is more accurate.)

Playdate Dress & Swingset Skirt

After a long sewing hiatus it looks like I can finally get back to the many projects that are waiting, already cut out and sitting in two large laundry hampers collecting dust.

First up was Oliver + S Playdate Dress.
As bad luck would have it, construction of this took much longer than anticipated.  First, I agonized over the inside of the yoke front and back trying out several ways to finish off the inside raw edge.
For this version, I used some double fold bias tape.
Then, thanks to some schmutz on my iron that I didn't see, there is now a big brown stain on the very front of the outside yoke that I cannot remove.  Argh.

Size 3T. Teal corduroy from Fabricland with white snowball looking trim.
I added a white cuff with the trim on the sleeve which isn't part of the pattern.  It was a bitch no easy task to stitch the trim and cuff to the sleeve. I tried using a zipper foot and then resorted to a 1/4 inch foot and with a few choice expressions, it seemed to work.

I am going to cut this dress pattern out again later today trying out another method to finish off the inside yoke area.

Since red wine sewing is a great stress reliever for me and because the Playdate Dress got me really stressed, I whipped out this sweet little skirt.  I've made the top from this Oliver + S pattern but never the skirt.

It's called Swingset Skirt. Size 3T. Fabric is from Aneela Hoey from her Walk in the Woods line.
It took less than an hour to construct and bonus, I'm calm now!

Off to cut out another Playdate Dress................