Saturday, April 17, 2010

Feliz Dress/Muslin/Test Run

Test run using cheapo fabric to make the Feliz dress following the tutorial from Trillium Design and the PDF download from Studio Tantrum
Having made the dress quickly and taking photos during the process, I now know how to make it (again) with minor changes and blogging it here because any piece of paper or notes will certainly get lost in my messy sewing room.
This trial run is using the smallest size.

Next time, I would make the ruffles first. That way, I could set the Serger for the rolled hem to finish the edges ( 3 threads RN in, LN out, Lower Looper tension set to 7-9, stitch finger forward, length 1.5) then reset the Serger to 4 threads to finish insides seams etc.


Finish edges of facing for the side panels.

Make back bow/sash.

Next time, I will cut the back sash narrow for the distance of the side panels and then increase to make wider. I would like to see a wider sash when it is tied. It can't be wide from where it gets attached at the side seams because it won't fit through the casing at a later step.

Mention is made of elastic at the end that goes into the side seam. For a smaller size, I don't think this step is necessary.

NOTE: These aren't necessary, particularly on smaller sizes.

Button holders. Cut piece of fabric 1 1/2 inches wide, maybe smaller.

Fold in half. Stitch the length.

Cut to 4 inch lengths, fold to make little tents. Stitch across top to hold in place.

Stitch to side panel of one side of the overdress.

Then pin and stitch the facings to the side panels.

Pin the sash pieces in between the front and the side panels.

At this point, BEFORE attaching front to side panels, the front can be trimmed or decorated.
This is the front panel. It could be decorated with ric rac, trims etc. before attaching to side panels.
Ric rac could be stitched down the front sides.
Or, side panels when attached to front panel could be decorated with trim or piping.

Edge stitch along the top, down the sides and on the front seams.
Hem bottom on overdress. I used lace. Next time I will add very shallow ruffle in a complimentary fabric, or perhaps eyelet lace. This lace was too wispy.

Ruffles. The hems were serged using rolled hem. Should have done this step first. The hems could also be piped with a bias trim.
These were cut 4 inches wide by 40 inches long. Should be longer for larger sizes.
Ruffle could also be 3 1/2 inches maybe smaller?

Ruffler. Easy to use! Should have bought one years ago.

Set stitch length to 2.5 as per instructions.

Great ruffles! Serged the top edge AFTER ruffling, This kept the ruffles in tact and finished off the edge nicely.


On the back panel, marked a line 3 1/2 inches up from bottom edge for first length of ruffles. Then 2 inches away from that for the second length, and again 2 inches away for the third and 2 inches from that for the fourth.
Three lengths of ruffles will do for next time.

Lay the length of ruffles facing upward, and stitch along marked line. Fold down, press.
Four lengths of ruffles. Notice the facing is attached to the top edge of the back panel.

Finish bottom edge of back panel facing. Stitch just along the top of the facing to the back centre panel. See above, but the photo doesn't show upper edge. Ooops.

Mark lines for elastic casing on the centre back 3/4 inch apart, starting just below the curve.

Stitch casing lines through centre back top and facing. Insert elastic. Pull up, pin sides and stitch to hold in place.Stitch back panel to side panels leaving a 1/2 inch of side panel above the curve of the back centre panel at the top edge.

Then sew front panel to side panels so the whole dress is now in a round.

Stitch straps together. Make a frill or decorate with ric-rac at this point.

NOTE: the frill isn't necessary.


Pin the strap at the edge of the front panel SEE FLAT HEAD PINS, and back edge of strap to back side panel SEE FLAT HEAD PINS. The straps are in a U shape from the front panel to the back of the side panels sandwiched between overdress and underdress.
Then pin the RS of the Overdress to the WS of the Underdress and stitch along the top edge.

Flip, and edge stitch along top edge.

Pin the sash to the Overdress on the inside, then lay it sandwiched between the Overdress and Underdress and mark for casing.

Stitch along those marked lines.

Finished dress. It still needs a length of ruffle around the whole hem of the Underdress.


Omit the ruffles from the straps.
Use piping on the front side panels.Use a shallow ruffled hem or eyelet lace on overdress not thin lace as this one has.
Maybe add pockets on the front, or decorate the front bib area.

The button closures weren't necessary on smaller dress.
One less length of ruffle may make it sit better. If the ruffles are 3 1/2 or smaller, then maybe 4 (more?) might be in order.
The sash could be wider, but can't be too wide for the length of the casing.
Elastic may not be necessary for smaller sizes.

Again, a ruffle around the entire hem of the Overdress is needs to be put on, which will make it longer and frillier.

Easy to construct.
Fun talking to ones self.

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