Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Bubble Shorts: Part 1 of 4

Okay, so the several family members that I have been looking after can now lift again, walk again and aren't throwing up or sneezing all over me. That means I can stay at home and sew! Yay!!

It's been over two months since I fired up the old Husqvarna and to get back in to the swing of things I decided join in on the Flip This Pattern event at Frances and Suzanne.




This month, the challenge is to "flip" the Bubble Shorts pattern by Elegance and Elephants.


So I bought and downloaded the PDF pattern and taped it together right away.
After the pattern was taped together, I could see that the two side pieces (front side and back side) would be a perfect template to play with the bubble pocket.

Tracing out size 5/6 and cutting the pattern using khaki twill, I stitched the two side pieces together.
Instead of cutting the full width of 13 1/2" (34cm) for the bubble pocket, using a contrast fabric I cut a piece 10 1/2"  (27cm) wide. Then followed the instructions on how to fold over the top edge, insert elastic which I cut down to approximately 5" (13cm).

Gathering the bottom edge of the pocket and spreading out the gathers evenly, I pinned it to the bottom edge of the two side pieces as well as pinning the sides of the contrasting pocket up to the elastic section.

Next, I cut a square of the main fabric approximately 6 1/2" X 6 1/2" (17cm X 17 cm), folded it on a diagonal to make a crease...


...then cut off the excess leaving about a 1/2"(1.5 cm) to fold over and topstitch.


Here are the 4 triangular pieces topstitched and ready to stitch on top of the contrast section of the pocket that is pinned to the front and back side pieces.


And here is one pocket section stitched down along the bottom and on the sides.


From that point, I followed the instructions which were basically to sew the front along the centre seam then the same for the back, then attach the sides to the front and back making a large circle of all 8 pieces.  (2 fronts, 2 sides (made up of 2 front sides and 2 back sides) and two back pieces.

Easy.

But when t came to attaching the leg cuffs and the waistband I found the pieces I cut were far too long even though I followed the cutting instructions perfectly.

No matter.
I cut them down, made them fit and was happy with the results.


They are cute little bubble shorts without a huge bubble pocket.
Maybe I should call them 'burst your bubble shorts?'


I really like this pattern and the instructions were easy to follow.

But I was mystified as to why the waistband and cuff sections were so out of whack. Maybe my absence from sewing made me rusty or my eagerness to get going on a project caused me to do something wrong.
So I decided to make another pair, go slower next time and try something different with this pattern.

Part 2 of Bubble Shorts to follow tomorrow.

Sunday, March 31, 2013

Collection Complete!

My collection of Oliver + S patterns is complete!

I can also say that as of today I have made at least one view or one item from all of the 37 patterns.  For example; I have made View A of the Fairy Tale Dress but not View B. I have made many Class Picnic tops, but not the shorts.
In addition to the purchased patterns, I have also made four of the free downloads: sundress, halter, skirt and hat.

I began collecting these patterns in 2009 and with the exception of three patterns that are only available in PDF format, all of my patterns are the original paper patterns and most are in both size categories.

Given my sewing time will be limited over the next month or so, during the past few days I have obsessed with getting through all the patterns. It's taken me almost 4 years to get to this point!

Here goes:

This pattern is called Forest Path Cape and is was a PDF download.  The fabric is a wool blend and for the lining I used Kasha which is a flannel backed satin.
Just before setting up the machine to make buttonholes I thought to myself that the cape might look good with bound buttonholes.
As soon as I can get to it, I will unpick the front section and make bound buttonholes. For this photo some grey buttons were pinned in place.
Size 5.


Next up is Sleepover Pajamas. They were quick to make. Next time around I will use a knit cuff for the pant leg. Fabric is flannel.  Size 2.


The third item I sewed this weekend was the Pinwheel Dress.  I had eyelet hanging around from an unfinished project from last summer and it called me to use it up. So I did.
I totally cheated and used store bought bias binding. I'm not happy with the way I sewed in place and should have taken more time.  I can still unpick it if someone notices.
The dress felt like it needed a little corsage so I found a shabby chic looking rose in my stash and pinned in place.
Size 5.


The fourth dress I sewed this weekend turned out to be somewhat fortuitous.
I ordered the Roller Skate Dress pattern however when it arrived during the week the pattern sheet wasn't the same size as indicated on the envelop. Ooops. A packaging error that can easily occur.
So I sent a note to O+S and they dispatched a new pattern right away. However it meant I would have to wait another week before completing the collection sewing-wise. At first I figured I could wait. Then by late this afternoon I was busting.  Must. Make. This. Dress. No. Matter. The. Size.
It took no time at all to sew together.  The fabric I used was Oxford cloth originally designed for a shirt. Not any more.
Size 4.


I truly enjoy making patterns from Oliver + S.  They are patterns that actually turn out like the illustrations and come with complete detailed, informative instructions. The styles are trendy and have interesting details. As far as I am concerned, O+S has raised the bar for sewing patterns and far outshine the 'Big 4'. In addition they have an excellent website for sewing support and community.

My next goal is to go back through my O+S pattern stash and make the Views I haven't made as well as the few items like the class picnic shorts, sundress bloomers, etc.

Phew!
What a busy long weekend juggling family, dinners, sewing, maple syrup making ..... time for a glass of wine!

Monday, March 18, 2013

Field Trip Cargo Pants

I really enjoyed making these pants.  I thought for sure they would be intricate, but no. Once again, easy peasy.
This isn't the most flattering photo of these pants. If the moon and stars line up, I'll try to get a photo of Adam wearing them.


I debated at length the colour of topstitching thread. Initially, I wanted to use orange. However I had some heavy duty Gutermann yellow and that ended the debate with myself.


I didn't use a twin needle, just a single size 16 jeans needle and that gave me better control when going around corners on the pockets.


The pocket flap lining is yellow Kona cotton and I just love the design of the pockets. I'll fill the pockets up with some little treasures.


The instructions for the front pocket it said that after a crease was made on the pocket piece, to topstitch the crease. Did that mean along the crease or pinch the crease and stitch through two layers.
I wasn't sure.
So I pinched the crease and stitched through the two layers. It looks okay to me.


I think I'll make the Explorer Vest from Little Things To Sew to go with these pants. I have just enough of the main fabric leftover. There's a sale at the "F" store starting Thursday so maybe I can find some bright yellow boyish fabric for the lining on the vest.



These pants are Size 2.
I like everything about this pattern and plan to make more. That will give me a good excuse to buy fabric suitable for these pants.... the kind of fabric I don't have much of in my stash.

Friday, March 15, 2013

Bubble Dress...again

The other day I read a comment from, I think it was Cindy, who mentioned that the Bubble Dress pattern only went to size 5 and she was going make one before her girls got any bigger.
(Edit update: Cindy say's it might have been Mel that made the comment.)

Well that prompted me to get the pattern out and have a look at it.  I didn't realize it stopped at size 5 .... and it's my all time favourite pattern by Oliver + S!


I traced out a size 4 and whipped it up in a little over an hour from cut to finish but not including the buttons and handwork. The piping was leftover from the Firefly Jacket I made in the week, also I omitted the elastic that makes the bubble part so no wonder it went together quickly.
Therefore without the elastic it's a deflated bubble dress.

For the hem, I cut the lining 1 1/2" (4cm) shorter than the main fabric skirt pieces, sewed them together at the bottom and then basted the top (waist) edge together creating a narrow folded up hem.


The only problem I have with this pattern is I cannot figure out the illustration on Page 3, 3rd column, step 2. I've made this dress many, many times but the illustration completely baffles me. I know how it's supposed to look at the back but I just can't figure it out using the drawing.

I think the Firefly Jacket I made the other day will look good with this dress.


If my daughter doesn't like the Firefly Jacket (she told me she didn't like it when I showed her the pattern on-line months ago) I am going to suggest folding the front down like a blazer lapel and put 2 buttonholes and buttons for closures.



Between now and next year I plan to make many Bubble Dresses and try and get a little more creative with them.
In many respects, I think the Geranium dress looks an awful lot like the Bubble dress, so I could copy the neckline using the template for the O+S Ice Cream dress neckline. And instead of gathers, I could do folds or pleats. Oh, and put in pockets too.


Meanwhile I have some patterns to trace out and lots more sewing to do. For some reason my stash seems to be growing larger and not getting busted.

Thursday, March 14, 2013

Firefly Jacket & Hula Hoop Skirt

These two patterns from Oliver + S are in pdf format only.  They were very easy to print and tape together so I could trace out the size I wanted.


The skirt has only 3 pattern pieces: two for the skirt and 1 for the waist.  The skirt is completely reversible and putting the pattern together was quick, easy and painless.  It's size 4.


The jacket pattern was also easy to print out and then tape the pages together. Except I ran out of scotch tape and wasn't about to drive a half hour in to town to get more. So I used double sided carpet tape. That was mistake because when I folded the finished product to put it away, it stuck to itself making it impossible not to reopen without ripping the paper. Argh.

The jacket was easy to put together; it's 2 pattern pieces so all was redeemed.   I used piping around the edge but in hindsight I should have used thicker cord.  Maybe bigger buttons too.

Jacket is size 5.


Instead of ribbon as suggested in the pattern for the back fold, I used a scrap of fabric used in the skirt.


The jacket is reversible which is helpful if the wearer drops ice cream down the front.



The vent in the back is reversed. In hindsight, I should have put something decorative on that section too.

Since the skirt and jacket are both reversible I flipped them both to see what it would look like with the fabrics I chose.
Meh.


I prefer this side out.

Now I'm down to 2 remaining O+S patterns in my stash to make; Sleepover P.J.'s and Field Trip pants and shirt.
After that I have to purchase the 2 new patterns: Roller Skate and Pinwheel dresses and Forest Path Cape and then I have made all 37 the Oliver + S patterns!

Notes to self: use thicker cording in piping, larger buttons, perhaps leave off second flap on back of skirt.

Friday, March 1, 2013

Croquet Dress

Another Oliver + S pattern done!
Just 4 more to go that I own, and 3 more to purchase and I've done them all.

This one is called Croquet Dress.  Despite reading through the instructions I just wasn't sure how this dress was going to come together.

The instructions were clear, it's just that I haven't constructed any dress like this before.  In the end, it was easy and went together quickly.


There's one thing that's certain this time of year ......  a white background for a photo.


Size 3.
Linen.

Here's hoping it fits.

Thursday, February 28, 2013

Book Report Dress

Well that was quick.
And easy too.
Time will tell if it passes the test though.



When I showed my daughter this Oliver + S  Book Report dress pattern when it first came out, she didn't care for it.
Outwardly I heaved a deep sigh.
Inwardly I knew I was going to make it.

Digging through my stash which incidentally is pretty much all over the sewing room floor these days, I came up with some blue and off white leafy fabric and paired it with blue poly/cotton.
"If she doesn't like this dress at all" I said to myself "at least I didn't use some treasured fabric."


But I like it.
I like how it buttons up at the shoulders and the dress front folds over the yoke back.


I like the fun pockets that are big and deep.  Perfect for little treasures.


I like the pleats on the front and back.



I like that the dress can be colour blocked....or not.  



And I like that it can be worn as a dress or tunic.
I have tunic in mind so just as soon as I can, I'm going to the fabric store to buy some stretch lace fabric to make leggings to wear with this dress.  Similar to the ones below.


I made size 4.

Note to self: fingers crossed she likes it because I want to make more.

Sunday, February 24, 2013

Fairytale Dress trial run

Since I don't have the luxury of trying garment pieces on Caitlin as a project progresses, I simply make up the whole item using old fabric.
In a way, the trial run is a muslin of sorts.

Because I had a peach invisible zipper in my stash, I selected some peach with white fleck cotton fabric and went to work making Oliver + S Fairytale dress.


I've made many bodice dresses in the past. Maybe 50 of them. Or maybe 100. The point is, I am no stranger to this style of dress.
So you'd think as a veteran I could make it in no time even standing on one foot and with my eyes closed.

Not this time around. This dress took me f-o-r-e-v-e-r ...... and it's just a trail run!



Despite the time element, I have to say I am completely happy with the pattern.
I just love the small collar (in the past my collars have been larger), the tulle underskirt which gives it more fullness, the petal sleeves and the little belt.

But I'm not happy with the footprints in the snow beside the dress. Coywolf. It went through about an hour ago and Lucy let me know.  It must be a big bugger too judging by the depth of the print.

Back to the dress......
For the hem, I machined a tuck instead of handsewing as per instructions.


Nervous because Lucy kept barking and sniffing something in the air, I retreated indoors to get another photo.


The dress is size 4 but is fitting rather snugly on the size 2/3 dress form. My guess is it'll be too tight. No worries. It's just a trial run.

When I do make it again I will use medium weight interfacing for the collar. The lightweight was just too thin and bodiless. (is that a word?)
Also, I think using quilting cotton is going to be difficult to iron after washing. Next time around I plan to use a lightweight, heavy-on-the-poly type of fabric.

Friday, February 15, 2013

Basic Blazer...again

Not to be scuppered by my own poor choice of fabric for this pattern when I made it last week, I went back to the stash, chose a slightly stretchy twill type of fabric as well as Bemberg lining and then made the Basic Blazer again.
The outcome this time around was much better. 



Like before, it was really difficult to get a good photo of the jacket. However it fit perfectly and the
Bemberg lining made it easy to slip the blazer on and off.




For our photo shoot our model agreed to sport some funky leather high tops too.


The only change I made to the pattern was to leave an opening in the back of the lining of the jacket to turn inside out as opposed to leaving the bottom open. During construction I basted most of the back seam of the lining and then removed the basting threads to turn inside out.
Also, I didn't stitch around the outside of the welt pocket as indicated. And instead of having 3 buttons for the front, went with 2. In hindsight I should have made bound buttonholes.


His mom and dad loved the outfit: Basic Blazer Jacket, white t-shirt  O+S Sandbox pants, and brown leather high top sneakers.


Basic Blazer from Blank Slate. Size 2
Off to make more little outfits...........................

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Photo shoot.

Getting kids to co-operate for photos can be most trying. One minute they are hams for the camera and the next, they want to hog the camera.

Here's Adam willingly sporting for the camera his new Sketchbook shirt and Sandbox pants.


His willingness to model is wearing thin but I can see that the pants hems are a little long as are the shirt sleeve cuffs.  Both are size 2 and next time around I'll make the necessary adjustment.



Okay so now he want to hold the camera.

Quickly I slipped on him the Basic Blazer pattern from Blank Slate; Melly Sews........


...but he was not going to co-operate by standing up for the photo.  He wanted to hold the camera, no ifs, ands or buts!


The blazer was easy and quick to make. Foolishly, I used a faux suede that doesn't have much body even with plenty of stabilizer.  It was impossible to iron and doesn't hold the front lapels properly.

Now our model is winding up to full tantrum because I'm not letting him have my camera.  But just look at those back pockets ... too cute, huh?


Here we are in full melt down.  I like the faux suede fabric because it doesn't crease so next time I'll use it for a dress, maybe the School Photo Dress.


Here I am offering my auxiliary camera .... it's a Canon ..... but no, he wants my Nikon.


I'm going to make this blazer again using a more structured fabric. Oh and with bemberg lining too.